The Hilsa Chronicles – Ilish Begun’er Tel Jhol

My mother, Suparna reminisces today.

“One of the earliest memories of marrying into my husband’s family is how much they loved food. My father-in-law had a peculiar style of breakfast with the influences from his British friends who kept their relationships years after the independence through handwritten letters and book exchanges; some of which I have still tugged inside the rusty bookshelves at home. A glass of milk, bread & butter and sunny-side up – his religious breakfast. The tradition would sometimes be heckled with my mother-in-law’s Sunday Luchi-Aloo’r Dom.

My late mother-in-law was a connoisseur of food; particularly choosy, the trait which I now see in my daughter. Good food, and good taste. You cannot “make-do” or just have a bad day when it comes to cooking. I have learnt most of the cooking from her, including the “Ilish Maach’er Tel Jhol“. The extra dash of mustard oil over the top, fresh aubergine bought by the males fresh from the market, smeared in earthy turmeric and extra green chilies made it a fresh and hassle-free preparation for the joint family.

As passionate as she was in cooking, the eating was not left behind. Tucking her heavy left hand on the rotating dining table, her right hand swiveled the center table for the Ilish Maach. Placed the best piece just over the steamed rice, a little salt on the side and remember when I told you about the extra green chilies? This is where she took the ones (a couple or more) and made tiny moist morsels with the soft pulpy green chili mash, a pinch of salt and a little gravy and ate to her heart content. My husband and my daughter inherited the same from her and follows the same tradition while devouring the Ilish Maach.

Today when I was cooking Ilish and saw my husband eat it to his heart’s content, Maa’s satiated face flashed before me. An uncomplicated yet divine concoction of Aubergine and Hilsa, the flavour of kalo jeere and the freshness of turmeric; this Tel Jhol is a piece of heaven for your taste buds.”

Ingredients:

1. Kalo jeere/Kalonji/Nigella seeds: 1 tbsp
2. Aubergine: 1 nos. (Sliced vertically)
3. Hilsa Fish: 4 pcs.
4. Turmeric: 3 tsp
5. Salt to taste
6. Green Chilly: 6 nos.
7. Mustard Oil: 1/2 cup

Recipe:

1. Smear the aubergine and the fish with turmeric and salt.
2. Lightly fry until they are slightly golden, separately in mustard oil.
3. Keep both aside in a bowl.
4. In the same pan, add the nigella seeds and let it sputter.
5. Add the green chilies and fry it lightly.
6. Meanwhile make a paste of turmeric, salt and a dash of warm water and add it to the pan.
7. Once the raw smell is gone, add warm water and let it boil.
8. Add the eggplants and let it boil for 5 minutes. Once the gravy is to the desired consistency and oil starts separating from the sides, add the fried fish.
9. Let it simmer for 5 more minutes.
10. Pour a extra dash of mustard oil to give that strong, pungent taste.
11. Serve hot with rice.

If you liked this recipe and want to see more of this mother-daughter duo, don’t forget to reach out to us at rannabaati00@gmail.com and our Instagram Handle @rannabaati by Oliva Das. We look forward to your requests and feedback!